Hi there! Here I am again, back from my holidays!
I had a wonderful time (apart from two, gender-related incidents - which I'll relate in due course). There were seven other people on the tour and in the space of fourteen days we saw so much - Lima, Cusco, of course the awesome Macchu Picchu, La Paz (went to the Valley of the Moon - fascinating!), took a boat trip across Lake Titicaca, saw the magnificent Iguazu Falls (first time I've seen a big waterfall - and wow...what a waterfall!)and visited Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro.
I found the people in South America to be very friendly, good humoured and courteous (especially in Peru and Bolivia) - even complete strangers often say "Buenos Dias" or "Hola" when encountering each other - especially early in the morning.
Of course, we also came across plenty of negative things, too. As we were travelling along in the coach we also saw a great deal of poverty (particularly in Peru and Bolivia). Life in the countryside living in an adobe brick house without windows and basic amenities must be tough enough, but when we passed through some of the towns living conditions seemed even worse. In La Paz especially, the fast and furious traffic chaos made it extremely dangerous to cross the roads and the amount of poisonous fumes belching out from vehicles has to be seen and tasted to be believed! Hopefully, things will improve for people there soon. Our tour guide told us that they are very pleased to see tourists because this contributes to their economy.
I think we all learnt so much in such a short space of time about places, peoples, cultures and histories that (unless you're specifically interested in South America) are rarely examined outside of that region.
We also saw some spectacular landscapes and wildlife. That's the first time that I've seen glaciers, volcanoes, and of course - the Andes, experienced the effects of altitude sickness (Cusco) and seen so many different, colourful and unusual plants and animals all existing naturally - in the wild. In our trip to the Iguazu national park area we saw lizards, beautiful giant butterflies in many different colours - blues, yellows, orange, purple, really cool, giant bugs with metallic-coloured coats, amazingly colourful birds and then there were these packs of racoon-type animals (Coatis?) that were wandering all over the park trying to get food off us tourists. I actually saw one go into a cafeteria and attack a guy who, scarily for him, had decided to wear shorts that day. Hmmm...wonder what would have happened if I'd decided to wear a skirt?!
Well...predictably I ended up using up 21 rolls of film! I should really have taken my digital camera, but I'm a real duffer when it comes to technology (digital camera is highly 'technical' as far as my limited abilities go:) When, I collect my pics from Boots next week, I'll scan some in of course and post them in the photos section here on my website. So you've been warned...be prepared for photos of pavements, lamposts, possibly UFOs and of people who look as if trees are growing out of the back of their heads!
As I mentioned at the beginning, I did have two, negative gender-related experiences. Isn't it amazing how these gender-identity problems happen all of a sudden in the most unexpected places and at the times when you think everything is okay?
The first bad thing happened at a gaucho show that I attended at the Santa Susana Ranch, some 100km outside of Buenos Aires. It's a really 'touristy' type venue and show and I feel so stupid for getting so upset about what happened there - but I really did get VERY upset. We spent a day there and I got a chance to ride a horse (another first for me - although we were only trotting, I was pretty scared!!!).
But...the bad experience wasn't that - I was really happy that I had managed to ride a horse and had a picture to prove it!
No, the scenario that upset me occured after dinner when the gaucho's were putting on a show to demonstrate their riding skills. We were all seated along on benches under a canopy watching them (I'd estimate there to be about 200 spectators in all). It was rather like a medieval tournament sort of theme, because the gaucho riders were approaching young females in the audience and giving them these rings that they had managed to scoop with cigars from hoops hanging from frames as they galloped through them. They then started approaching women in the audience and giving them rides on the backs of their horses - continuing with the whole romantic thing - galloping off with a gaucho etc...
Anyway, pretty soon all the women in the audience were getting up from their seats and jumping up and down calling to the gauchos to give them a ride and the gauchos were riding back and forth giving rides to them. Unable to resist this, (having trotted around earlier, I was curious to know what it was like to be on a horse when it was galloping) I got up. As you can guess, I didn't have any success at being chosen. After much jumping around and waving my arms in the air, one of the riders approached me and looked as if he was about to give me a ride. He looked at me, I was just about to get on and then he stopped me and said 'una momenta' and pointed. I looked beside me and there was a young woman and he was asking her if she'd like a ride. I think that I was there before her and she actually offered therefore to let me go first - but, of course, he totally ignored me. So, I never got to ride!
Well, sorry I'm going on a bit here.
The second upsetting incident happened right at the end of the holiday en route to Heathrow, at Madrid Barajas Airport as I was being processed through their security checkpoint. Up until then, (and our holiday had involved 8 flights) I hadn't had any gender problems with airport security. I was beginning to feel that the initial fears described in my last post were totally unfounded. Moreover, I always make sure that I religiously take off anything that may conceivably contain metal that may be about my person and put it all in the tray prior to going through the metal detector.
Well, this one time I had forgotten to take my purse out of the pocket of my jeans and its metal zip fastener triggered the metal detector alarm. The security official (I actually think they were Spanish Police - they had truncheons) told me to turn out my pockets and to open up my purse. Naturally, I had no problem with conceding to these demands and I then thought that he would ask me to walk through the metal detector again - minus my purse - in order to see if I still set off the alarm.
Instead, he subjected me to a full body intimate pat-down search, including the genital area. I was under the impression that EU law stipulates that any pat-down search should be carried out by a security officer who is of the same gender as the person being searched. Obviously, the authorities at Madrid Airport don't consider this right to apply to transgendered people. There were plenty of other security staff around - including a female pat-down searcher who was standing right there beside me.
When I inadvertently set off the metal detector alarm last year at Shanghai Airport (I promise I try not to make a habit of these things:), a female officer very efficiently and respectfully searched me using a hand wand, quickly discovering that it was my the metal buckle of my belt that had set off the alarm. Why can't Madrid have a similar system?
I know that it has to be done, but what I consider to be an inappropriate pat-down search has left me feeling very upset. I've written a letter to Madrid Airport to explain how I feel.
Oh well, guess I'd better end here before I run out of webspace. I'd be really interested to know if anyone has had any similar experiences with regard to airport security - transgendered or otherwise or indeed, of South America.
Well...back to work next week:) Thanks for reading, folks!